Speaker Repair FAQ, Tips & Sizing Guide

General Questions

I am not sure if a repair kit fits my speaker. What should I do?

STOP! Please contact North Speaker Parts right away before applying any adhesive. If you are unsure of the fit, sizing, or compatibility, do not attempt the installation. We cannot accept returns or exchanges on kits that have had glue applied or show signs of installation attempts. Drop us a message with your speaker brand and model number, and we will guide you to the right kit.

How do I measure my speaker to find the right surround?

To find a matching surround, you need to take four precise measurements using a ruler or calliper (ideally in millimetres):

  • Outer Diameter (A): The absolute outside edge of the new foam/rubber surround.
  • Outer Roll Diameter (B): The measurement across the outer edge of the raised "roll" or hump.
  • Inner Roll Diameter (C): The measurement across the inner edge where the raised "roll" meets the inner flat lip.
  • Inner Diameter (D): The absolute inside edge of the surround lip that attaches to the speaker cone.

Tip: Always check whether your speaker cone has a flat lip or an angled lip where the inner surround attaches, as this changes the type of kit you need.

What is the difference between a "flat" cone and an "angled" cone?

  • Flat Edge Cone: The edge of the speaker cone is flat/horizontal where the inside lip of the surround glues down.
  • Angled Edge Cone: The edge of the speaker cone slopes downward or angles toward the center. This requires an angled-attach surround so the suspension functions properly without buckling.

I received my kit but it looks like there is only one surround inside. Where is the other one?

Don't worry! In almost all of our North Speaker Parts kits, the speaker surrounds are nested or lightly pressed together in transit to protect them. Carefully inspect the edges and gently peel them apart—you will find two distinct surrounds ready for your repair.

Installation Tips & Technical Support

How do I prepare the speaker frame and cone for the new surround?

The secret to a perfect repair is preparation. You must completely remove the old, degraded foam and adhesive residue:

  1. Carefully scrape the metal basket/frame using a plastic scraper or utility knife until it is bare metal. Rubbing alcohol can help dissolve stubborn adhesive.
  2. Gently scrape the outer edge of the cone. Be incredibly careful with paper cones—take your time and work in small sections so you don't tear the material.
  3. The surfaces must be completely dry and free of debris before applying speaker adhesive.

Do I need to remove the dust cap and shim the voice coil?

For most standard home audio woofer repairs, shimming is not strictly necessary if you use the hand-centering method. By applying even pressure around the cone while the glue cures, you can feel if the voice coil is rubbing. However, for high-excursion subwoofers or heavy-duty pro audio drivers, removing the dust cap and using plastic shims ensures absolute precision.

How long does the speaker repair glue take to cure?

Our specialized speaker repair adhesive begins to tack up within 5 to 10 minutes, allowing you time to adjust the alignment. We recommend letting the glue dry for at least 24 hours before mounting the speaker back into its cabinet and applying audio power.

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Instructions

Instructions

Required Equipment

  • New speaker surrounds
  • Screwdriver (for speaker removal)
  • Utility knife
  • Rubbing alcohol or lacquer thinner
  • Speaker repair glue
  • Wood chisel (optional, for stubborn residue)

Step-by-Step Instructions

Phase 1: Disassembly & Cleaning

  1. Remove the Speaker: Unscrew the speaker driver from the cabinet and disconnect the wires.
  2. Detach the Gasket: If your speaker has a gasket, use a utility knife to carefully slice through the glue separating it from the frame and old surround. Save the gasket for reinstallation later.
  3. Clean the Surfaces: Dab rubbing alcohol onto the old foam/rubber residue on the frame, gasket, and cone. Let it soak in to soften the glue, then carefully scrape it clean using your utility knife or chisel. The surfaces must be completely clean and dry before proceeding.

Phase 2: Fitting & Gluing the Inner Edge

  1. Dry Fit the New Surround: Place the new surround onto the cone and frame to check the fit. If the outer lip is slightly too large, carefully trim the outer edge with your utility knife.
  2. Glue Surround to Cone: * If the cone has a flat lip, apply glue in a continuous wave pattern directly to that lip.If the cone is angled, apply the wave pattern of glue to the underside of the inner surround lip.Apply the surround to the cone immediately after gluing.
  3. Secure the Inner Bond: Gently rub and work the inner edge of the surround against the cone for a few minutes to ensure the glue spreads evenly and begins to tack. Allow it to dry for 1 hour.

Phase 3: Gluing the Outer Edge & Reassembly

  1. Glue Surround to Frame: Lift the outer edge of the surround and apply a generous layer of glue directly onto the speaker frame underneath. Press the surround down, working it with your fingers to ensure a good bond. Allow it to dry for 1 hour.
  2. Reattach the Gasket: If you removed a gasket in Step 2, apply a layer of glue to the top outer diameter of the new surround. Press the gasket firmly back into place. Allow it to dry for 1 hour.
  3. Reinstall the Speaker: Reconnect the speaker wires and screw the speaker driver back into its cabinet.

Pro-Tips for Success

  • Take Your Time Scaping: The bond of your new surround is only as good as the cleanup job. Don't rush the removal of the old glue.
  • The Wave Pattern: Gluing in a tight "S" or wave pattern ensures full surface coverage without creating a massive, runny mess when pressed down.
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